Turkey – Where Asia meets Europe

The gateway between the East and West, few countries claim a history and culture as vibrant as Turkey’s. Bordered by eight countries and lying between the Black and Mediterranean Sea, its land has been occupied and fought over by a myriad of past empires. The Hittites, Persians, Romans and Ottomans are just some of the ancient civilisations who enjoyed not just the strategic location of modern day Turkey, but its vast and otherworldly beauty. The country acts as living-breathing museum, a giant time capsule of ancient ruins, relics and places of worship that have helped document mankind throughout the ages.

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Dear Sydney, it’s time to stop living with your mother

PaulMcNamaraSydney

As published by the Sydney Morning Herald…

Dear Sydney,

I’ve returned to you after several years abroad, and have some confessions.

I met many others in my travels. I danced the salsa with Cartagena in Colombia. Ate the most delicious watermelon with Urumqi in China. Watched the Atlantic pummel against the old fort walls with Essaouira in Morocco. And drank red wine from ancient wooden cups with Tbilisi in Georgia.

I fell in love in almost every country I went, but deep down I knew I would always return to you. We’ve been together again now for many months. I hoped the magic would return. It hasn’t. Whilst making new friends with cities across the world, I learnt things. I grew through experiences. I learnt life skills to survive independently. Without anyone telling me how to live my life. Unimaginable freedom. But then there’s you.

You’re still living with your mother. You’re 227 years old now, Sydney. It’s embarrassing. I don’t know what you did Sydney, but how can an adult continue his relationship with a city that has this 1.30am bedtime? Perhaps I’ll excuse you living with your mum – property prices after all have become outrageous. But the problem with your bed time is a deal breaker. What happened to your voice, Sydney? Your mother is there to nurture you, not to rule and destroy you.

She tells me the problem is late-night violence on your streets. I don’t like to get involved with family politics, but I feel someone needs to speak up. Rather than introducing your curfew, why did she not improve the police presence on your streets, or have the initiative to treat the issue at its roots?

Is she saying that because of late-night violence where a few people are tragically killed each year, we have had too much freedom? In cities across the world, people die fighting FOR their civil liberties. Yet with you – we continually introduce new laws and regulations that repress the personal freedoms that make this country so blessed.

The police now boast that the lockout laws are a success because assaults on the streets are down 40 per cent. This is akin to banning driving on the road after dark and celebrating a reduction in the night time road toll. Meanwhile businesses are closing down, and alcohol fuelled domestic violence continues.

I’m unsure about you Sydney, but I like the ability to make my own choices. I don’t want someone telling me what to do, and when to do it. We are no longer children.

Perhaps I was spoilt not needing to worry about any curfews as I discovered the enchanting ruin bars with Budapest in Hungary, not needing to fear being fined by a policeman as I drank green wine on the polished stone footpaths with Lisbon in romantic Portugal, and with the freedom to savour the local flavours as I wandered the tapas bars for late night dinners with Granada in Spain.

But it has given me perspective. We need to permit ourselves freedoms to encourage a sense of belonging in this community, to allow our personality to develop naturally. Australia will not advance its cultural identity in a society under the tight control of those who feel they know what’s best for us.

Risks are a part of life, and for many – what makes life exciting. We must stop mitigating risks through authoritarian decision making. How far do we keep pushing the line? Will this obsession with safety continue until we are all locked up in cages for our own protection?

We’re heading in the wrong direction. Sydney, I beg for you to voice your opinion, to regain your independence and sense of excitement, because at night – your streets have become soulless.

This article was first published by the S.M.H on 28th May 2015

Sydney Harbour, opera house

View of my home city of Sydney Australia

Georgia – King of the Caucasus

The most visited of the three Caucasus countries, Georgia has done well to rid itself of its Soviet past, providing an exciting new destination for visitors. The welcoming and proud people have preserved much of their culture and traditions, most notably their wine production – with evidence suggesting they were the world’s first producer. Beyond the abundance of cute towns lined with cobble stoned streets and ancient monasteries scattered across the country, it is the spectacular Caucasus Mountains that steal the show, offering gorgeous vistas of some of the tallest snow-capped mountains in Europe.

Sighnaghi, one of Georgia's smallest towns

Sighnaghi, one of Georgia’s smallest towns

 

A fault line shows itself near the disputed Georgian-Armenian border

A fault line shows itself near the disputed Georgian-Armenian border

 

The David Gareja monestary built into the rock faces

The David Gareja monestary built into the rock faces

 

Discovering ancient artwork painted on the walls of caves

Discovering ancient artwork painted on the walls of caves

 

Street painting in the capital, Tibilisi

Street painting in the capital, Tibilisi

 

Ruins in the town of Kazbegi

Ruins in the town of Kazbegi

 

The beautifully placed Gergeti trinity church in Kazbegi

The beautifully placed Gergeti trinity church in Kazbegi

 

View towards Mt Kazbek in the Kazbegi region

View towards Mt Kazbek in the Kazbegi region

 

Svaneti Chaaladi glacier makes it's way slowly down the gorge

Svaneti Chaaladi glacier makes it’s way slowly down the gorge

 

Beautiful light show between clouds from Lake Koruldi, Mestia

Beautiful light show between clouds from Lake Koruldi, Mestia

 

Clouds begin to clear for the day in Mestia

Clouds begin to clear for the day in Mestia

 

Beautiful light show between clouds from Lake Koruldi, Mestia

Beautiful light show between clouds from Lake Koruldi, Mestia

 

Mountain rises from the clouds from Lake Koruldi, Mestia

Mountain rises from the clouds from Lake Koruldi, Mestia

 

Rainbow breaks out after some rain, Mestia

Rainbow breaks out after some rain, Mestia

 

Russian mountains reflect off Lake Koruldi, Mestia

Russian mountains reflect off Lake Koruldi, Mestia

 

Lake Koruldi Mestia

Lake Koruldi Mestia

 

Enjoying a freshly made yogurt after a hike in the mountains

Enjoying a freshly made yogurt after a hike in the mountains

 

Home for the night at the Koruldi lakes in Mestia

Home for the night at the Koruldi lakes in Mestia

 

From one paradise to the next

After a much longer than expected 4 days sailing to Ziguinchor in the Casamance, a beautiful river region in the south of Senegal, on a boat which I’d hitched from Dakar, I walk into a beautiful camp site surrounded by palm trees where I can see endless days of lying in a hammock. Only some 10 minutes later, I receive a phone call. Gabor, another boat hitcher from Austria calls on behalf of Isreali Captain Alon. A spot has opened up on on Alon’s boat, due for a transatlantic crossing in a few days. Destination:  Barbados. After over two weeks of waiting in the Dakar sailing club I thought I may never find a boat in good time for this crossing, particularly when it seemed more hitchers than boats were arriving. So no sooner have I arrived, it is time to find transport back to Dakar for this next stage of my journey. It might sound like an amazing opportunity, and it is… but the four days just spent on the yacht where I travelled no more than 200 miles with an old French skipper was far from easy sailing, a story on its own. A new perspective of what lies ahead for the traverse across the Atlantic has dawned on me. This is more than just a cheaper or more romanticised way of travelling across the ocean. It’s an adventure with some serious risks. Approximately 3000 miles of unknown. So I leave you with farewell as I prepare to take the same voyage taken by millions of Africans sent across the Atlantic between the 14th and 19th Centuries, with the fortunate difference of a tropical paradise waiting for me at the other end, and some more of that stuff we call freedom. Adios amigos! Live your life!

In the distance, Fisherman remove their dugout canoe after a days work in Ziguinchor

In the distance, Fisherman remove their dugout canoe after a days work in Ziguinchor

Palm tree trimming along the Casamance river, Ziguinchor

Palm tree trimming along the Casamance river, Ziguinchor

Cruising up the Casamance river towards Ziguinchor

Cruising up the Casamance river towards Ziguinchor